As I prepared to host a casual backyard barbecue at our place in Napa a few weeks ago, I realized I was tired of my go-to non-alcoholic drinks. Sparkling water. Yawn. Sparkling water with juice and a twist. Double yawn.
And then I remembered a conversation I’d had with Matt Kettmann of the Santa Barbara Independent and now new Central Coast Wine Guy (not his official title) for Wine Enthusiast. We had met for lunch at Finch & Fork in downtown Santa Barbara a couple of months ago when I was home for vacation. Refreshingly, rather than the usual winemaker-wine writer shop talk (“How’s harvest looking?” “This wine has 30% new oak.”) we found ourselves chatting about home winemaking, Santa Barbara’s exploding tasting room scene and….shrubs.
No, these shrubs are not the kind you prune or the kind you bring The Knights who say “Ni!” but the kind you drink. Stemming from the Arabic word sharāb, which means “to drink,” shrubs have their origin in the Middle Ages as an herbal medicinal beverage and then emerged into seventeenth century Europe as a concentrated syrup made of vinegar, water and sugar. As a lover of food and drink history I have long enjoyed researching recipes from such sources as Jane Austen’s family “receipt book” and Victorian housekeeping manuals. Over the years I’ve come across recipes for sundry shrubs and “cordials” in these antique cookery books. The concept is easy to understand from an historical householder’s point of view. Submerging ripe summer fruit in a solution of vinegar and sugar helped preserve part of an abundant (and quickly-spoiling) harvest while creating a tart, fruit-flavored liquid as the fruit macerated in vinegar over time. In an era before commercial sodas and prepared cocktails, mixing 1-2 oz. of this “drinking vinegar” with about a cup of cold or sparkling water (which was increasingly available in the eighteenth century) created a refreshing, flavorful drink.
Today, shrubs are enjoying a renaissance in trendy restaurants and bars (especially, it seems, in produce-rich wine country) but you don’t have to travel to someone else’s watering hole to enjoy these handcrafted sippers. I started experimenting with shrubs in my kitchen because I was looking for interesting (but low-calorie, natural and non-alcoholic) beverages to enjoy with my family and guests. What I’ve found is that making a fresh fruit shrub is cheap, easy and delicious. They can be thrown together from ingredients and with equipment you probably already have on hand.
Below is a “Pick-a-Fruit” shrub recipe that I’ve developed based on historical techniques to utilize whatever fruit you can rustle up at the farmer’s market or in your backyard. Call it the “Choose-Your-Own Adventure” of DIY beverage-making. I started with wine-based vinegar (naturally) but don’t be afraid to branch out into other interesting vinegars (I even experimented with a banana vinegar sold by Rancho Gordo!). Beware of balsamic vinegars and their ilk since they will mask the pure fruit flavor and of course can be quite expensive. Use organic produce if possible and don’t be afraid to tweak the amounts given. The key thing is for the fruit to be completely submerged in the vinegar during the week’s maceration time.
The level of sweetness is up to you. Some of the old recipes call for a 1:1 ratio of fruit, vinegar and sugar but as I prefer my drinks drier (my friends know I prefer “ultra-brut” sparkling wine and bone-dry Chardonnay) don’t be afraid to add more sugar if that’s to your taste. Grab some herbs from your garden or window box to garnish the finished product, serve with cute straws over ice and there you have it! Shrubs are the perfect potable project for lazy summer weekends and will reward your senses (and your sense of DIY accomplishment) all season long.
Girl and the Grape’s Vintage “Pick-A-Fruit Shrub” Recipe
A “drinking vinegar” syrup to dilute with water or sparkling water for flavorful summer sipping. This versatile recipe is inspired by many I’ve read in Victorian and Georgian cookery books, including Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management and Jane Austen’s family’s recipe collection.
Yield: Makes about 1/2 cup of concentrated syrup, which will provide 4-6 drinks depending on desired strength.
Note: This recipe can be easily doubled, but the 8 oz jar size allows you to experiment with multiple flavors in small batches
-8 oz glass canning jar with screw-on lid
-Fine mesh strainer
-1-cup liquid measuring cup (with pour spout)
Choose your vinegar (about ¾ cup, or enough to cover fruit):
-White wine vinegar
-Red wine vinegar
(Note- strong, sweet or otherwise flavored vinegars are quite potent and do not let the fruit flavors shine through. Other “lighter” vinegars like rice wine vinegar, white balsamic vinegars or even apple cider vinegars can also be used. I experimented with Steve Sando’s Rancho Gordo Banana vinegar to great success. I would not use anything too robust like Balsamic, however.)
Choose your sweetener:
-1/4 cup sugar
-1/4 cup sugar and 2 tbs honey
-1/3 C agave nectar
Note: Agave nectar is not “period” but since it’s so popular right now I wanted to include alternatives
Choose your fruit:
½ C of any of the below fresh fruit:
-Strawberries (washed, hulled and sliced)
-Apricots (washed, pitted and sliced)
-Plums (washed, pitted and sliced)
-Blueberries (washed and slightly crushed)
-Blackberries (washed and slightly crushed)
Suggested flavor combinations:
-Strawberries: red wine vinegar
-Apricots: Champagne vinegar
-Plums: White wine vinegar
-Blueberries: ½ red wine and ½ Champagne vinegar
-Blackberries: ½ red wine and 1/2 white wine vinegar
When serving, try cucumber slices, mint sprigs, basil sprigs, lavender stalks or citrus peel as garnishes for extra aroma, flavor and visual appeal.
Cover the prepared fruit and sweetener with your vinegar of choice. Shake well to combine and dissolve any sugar crystals. Shake twice a day for two weeks, keeping jar in a dark, cool place. Strain contents into measuring cup, gently pressing down on fruit to extract liquid. Pour into clean jar and label with contents and date.
Combine 1-2 oz of the shrub syrup with about 1 C cold still or sparkling water, to taste. It is also historically accurate to include a 1/2 oz of rum or an ounce of red or white wine. Garnish as desired. Cucumber and mint are two of my favorites.
Alison Crowe is a Winemaker and lives in an old Victorian house in downtown Napa with her husband and two small boys. Twitter: @alisoncrowewine girlandthegrape.com is a finalist for “Best New Wine Blog” in the 2014 Wine Blogger Awards!
When I was a Viticulture & Enology student at UC Davis, I noticed what I’ll call a slightly unholy alliance between the place and a well-known winemaking AVA just about an hour to the north west of campus (hint: it starts with an “N” and ends with an “apa”.) All my fellow students seemed to want to work there. All the wineries we got tasting samples from were based there. And all of the free copies of the major national wine publications in the student lounge seemed only to profile wine from there. And so my appreciation of the wine roads, and of wine communications media, less traveled began (maybe that’s why I stayed at Bonny Doon for so long?).
Like diversity? Like democracy? Like the weird, the wacky, the informative, the brilliant and creative? Heck, just like to waste some quality time bopping around online? Then make sure your voice is heard in the 2014 Wine Blog Awards*. Voting closes Thursday, June 19 at midnight. Here are four reasons why you should care, and why you should vote:
The Wine Blog Awards……
-Encourage consumer choice in wine writing and review beyond the “Big 5″ publications
Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Food & Wine, Decanter, and Wine & Spirits have long dominated the arena of wine review, wine commentary and wine edutainment. They are polished publications, each with their own angle, and each with a stable of talented writers and creatives. They also each have stables of advertisers and marketers and as such must be recognized as the commercial concerns they are. The Wine Blog Awards help break open this hegemony by encouraging new writers and communicators coming from many different places in the wine world to share their experiences.
-Encourage diversity in the world of wine media
Though the Wine Blog Award winners have historically been mostly male, this year provides the most gender, ethnically and nationality-mixed slate of finalists in all nine categories I’ve seen since the Wine Blog Awards’ inception in 2007. This is a much better record than the largely white, male and middle aged editors and writers at most major wine publications. Perhaps more importantly, it more accurately reflects the real world of wine consumers and the wine industry.
-Provide a curated list of “who to follow” in the crowded wine media space
The Internet is a crowded and noisy place. The Wine Blog Awards, and especially the larger list of finalists in all nine categories, really provide a nice one-stop-shop of likely folks to follow. Whether you enjoy the lip-smacking snarkasm of The Hosemaster of Wine, love the gorgeous drawings at Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews or want to experience wine country when you’re not on vacation by visiting Lynmar Estate’s wine blog, there’s something for just about everyone. Be sure to check out a list of historical award winners here to even further expand your wine education, commentary and experience universe.
-Provide recognition for those making strides in writing, photography and video in the wino-sphere.
We don’t have any James Beard Awards, Pulitzers or even 100 Point scores. Heck, wine bloggers (especially those focusing on wine reviews) don’t really get much recognition beyond the occasional invitation from a wine region to come and cover them or a shout out on social media. Everyone pretty much has a day job and does it, especially at the start, for the love of wine and community. Though don’t get me wrong, some of the Wine Blog Award finalists and winners are of course PR/Marketing products of their respective wineries, they should absolutely be applauded for what they’re doing. Rewarding “Excellence in New Media” is, after all, what the Wine Blog Awards are about.
I am thrilled when wineries (and other businesses, like Wine.com) see the power of investing in their storytelling and opening new avenues of communication. I love it when a wine lover like Bill Eyer at Cuvee Corner starts up a page about their passion and as a result creates a larger community with their family, friends and the social media wine world. Only by putting ourselves out there can we discover, and help others uncover, the “wine road less traveled” and break open a window into the wild, wacky and wonderful world that is wine.
Alison Crowe is the Winemaker at Garnet Vineyards, makes wine from the North and Central Coasts and (gasp!) lives in downtown Napa with her husband and two small boys. Come hang out for more of “Winemaking, Life and the Dirt,” the musings of a winemaker, unfined and unfiltered, at www.facebook.com/GarnetVineyards.
It only takes a few seconds. Voting is only open until June 19 so do it before you crack open the Sunday vino and forget…..
Alison Crowe is the Winemaker at Garnet Vineyards @GarnetVineyards facebook.com/GarnetVineyards
Pinot Noir has quite a reputation. Often known as the “Heartbreak Grape” and lovingly discussed, dissected and degustated (is that even a word?) by rabid Pinotphiles, Pinot Noir was being talked about in the wine world well before the movie Sideways thrust it onto an international stage. Ten years after Miles and friends brought the joys of Pinot to a wider audience , the tidal wave of Pinot Noir shows no signs of slowing down and I couldn’t be more thrilled. I grew up in Santa Barbara County, spent my first harvest making estate-grown Pinot Noir at the unique Chalone Vineyard and now make Pinot Noir at Garnet Vineyards. As a dyed-in-the-wool (or in the hair, during harvest) Pinot freak, I wanted to share with you some quirky factoids and some common misconceptions about my favorite grape.
Pinot Noir Isn’t Always “The Heartbreak Grape”
Is Pinot Noir called “The Heartbreak Grape” because it’s so tough to make or because it’s so tough to shell out the ducats for that first growth Burgundy? Seriously, the “tough to deal with” label has been stuck to Pinot Noir throughout the years perhaps because it’s generally a thin-skinned, tightly-clustered varietal which means it’s susceptible to rot and fungus. Given that Pinot Noir does best in cool, moist climates (like the Russian River, Carneros, Monterey County and Garnet Vineyard’s Rodgers Creek Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap), it’s logical to see how, especially in wet years, Pinot Noir can get a reputation for being sensitive. The flip side of this dismal-sounding coin is that Pinot Noir is an early-ripening variety, which means that it tends to get picked before late-season storms can rain on the tasty wine parade. The good news is that not every clone is the same and some have looser, less rot-prone clusters. Even though both 2007 and 2011 were relatively wet years, I found that Garnet’s vineyards pulled through just fine and were happily fermenting away when things were getting ugly out there. Fortunately I also tend to find that Pinot Noir (unlike some red grapes) behaves very well in the cellar and benefits from minimalist winemaking. No heartbreak there. Like Rafael Nadal’s relaxed but devastatingly effective two-handed backhand (OK, I’ve been watching the French Open), Pinot doesn’t like to be muscled around with theatrics but to be played through with authoritative restraint. Though Pinot Noir does take a little extra care and feeding in the vineyard, in the winery I find it responds very well to a classic “hands off” regimen of time-honored simplicity: destem, ferment, press, and age. Game, set, match.
Pinot Noir has a Large Extended Family
Ever heard of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Meunier or Pinot Grigio? The definitive study has yet to be done on who exactly gave rise to who and when, but what is certain is that the Pinot genome is very mutable and very mutatable. Pinot Noir, with its long (some say over 2,000 years) history in production and suspected gene transposition properties, can spontaneously create different clones and even “offspring” that are deemed different enough to be classified as different varieties entirely. Though mutations tend to take years to happen, discover and classify, there are over one hundred different clones of Pinot Noir identified in the winemaking world today. Myself, I like the blending complexity that the different clones planted in different soils and vineyards offer me. It’s pretty cool to be able to create a wine like our Sonoma Coast Pinot from the minerality of Rodgers Creek Vineyard’s 777 clone and balance that with some sweet fruits from Russian River’s Pommard clone. Are these genetic shenanigans a good thing or a bad thing….? If you like variety and a little unpredictability in your life, it’s great and couldn’t be more fun. I think Pinot drinkers (and Pinot winemakers), who tend to be a curious, quirky bunch anyway, would agree!
Pinot Noir is the Most Versatile Food Wine
There, I said it. Some would say it’s bubbles, some would say it’s the darling-of-the moment, dry rosé, but I plant my food-friendly flag permanently in the world of Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir can be made in so many styles (hey, even Champagne and pink wine!), from light and fruity to dense, dark and brooding. Salmon is an obvious fish pairing but give blackened catfish, mussels or halibut a try too. And Yes of course it goes with poultry, cheese, pork, roast veggies and many Asian-influenced dishes. Try a higher acid-lower alcohol cuvee to cut through something spicy and fatty like smoked duck tacos. Heck, I even challenge you to pair a robust Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir (like our Rodgers Creek single vineyard designate), whose uncharacteristically thick skins yields a higher tannin profile, with a steak and see what I mean. Chewy, rich Pinot to stand up to beef? Yup. Pinot: It’s what’s for dinner.
Alison Crowe is the Winemaker at Garnet Vineyards and loves all things Pinot. Check out the Garnet website at www.garnetvineyards.com and keep up with her on Facebook, facebook.com/GarnetVineyards and on Twitter, @GarnetVineyards.
Copyright Alison Crowe 2014
What does a vineyard smell like? If you’re fortunate enough to be around vineyards in the middle of Spring, you might find out if you can catch the vines when they’re in the midst of that fleeting week or two called “Bloom.” This is when the developing grape clusters actually flower, get fertilized and begin their true journey to become this harvest’s grape crop.
Some express surprise that grapes actually flower. It’s not perhaps the most glamorous part of the wine year, and certainly never seems to get much attention in the media. Indeed, it is probably one of the quietest times of the growing season. The pruning crews are long gone and the tractors have done most of their post-winter tilling. The danger of frost season is largely over. Harvest is still many long months away and winemakers have their heads buried deep in their barrel stacks and their bottling lines. Attention is focused elsewhere.
In the meantime, screens of vine leaves obscure the drama quietly unfolding underneath. Push aside a saucer-sized leaf and you’ll reveal a thumb’s length of yellow-green nubs, each crowned with a tuft of cream-colored threads. Carefully wave away the drowsing bumblebee and bury your nose in the soft texture of the developing grape cluster. Inhale. Until the grapes are crushed and fermentation begins, this is the only time you’ll be able to immerse yourself in the scent of a grape.
So what does a vineyard smell like? Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir, at 10:01 in the morning on May 1, 2014 smelled like the skin of a sun-warmed D’Anjou pear, the flesh of a fuji apple and a slice of a barely-ripe honeydew melon.
The aroma of a blooming grape cluster is sweet without being cloying and like the scent of violets, is ephemeral and doesn’t satiate. It’s impossible to stop sniffing because the aroma of Bloom, like the time of the year itself, is subtle, beautiful and fleeting.
Alison Crowe is the Winemaker at Garnet Vineyards and is fascinated by the world of scent and loves how aromas stir our memories and touch our souls.
Like this blog? Nominate me for “Best Winery Blog” in the 2014 Wine Blog Awards!
Copyright Alison Crowe 2014
It was with a little nervous trepidation that I stepped up to the bar at Fish Story to tap my first keg of wine. I had invited 25 co-workers and close friends to help me tap Garnet Vineyard’s first ever Pinot Noir in a keg, which also happens to be my first ever wine in the keg.
About a month or so ago, I was contemplating the wine kegging process and learned a lot about how the actual kegging process workd. Now that we’ve since put the wine in the kegs themselves, my questions have turned to other quarters.
How would a wine-serving process and premise so very different from the traditional bottle deliver? Would the nose, color, taste or texture of my precious Pinot Noir be different? Most importantly, would it be good? Heck- would it be great? I had to draw a glass, in this private moment before everyone showed up, to see for myself.
Happily, I can report, I tapped a keg and I liked it! Now I wasn’t really too worried, knowing that Free Flow Wines (the company that kegged up the wine for me) and Gwen Larson’s team at Fish Story were all experienced veterans in this wildly-growing world of wine-on-tap. The Lark Creek Restaurant Group, of which Fish Story is a member, was an early adopter of the wine on tap movement and Free Flow has become the go-to partner for quality-conscious winemakers getting their wine into kegs.
I was the inexperienced one this time, and I’m glad to report (all my kegger invitees back me up, here) that the wine tasted great. My Assistant Winemaker, Barbara and I had delivered the wine to Free Flow’s south-Napa winery/kegging facility about a month prior and had watched with fascination as their precision-engineered machine (custom made in Germany- by a beer company!) cleaned, sanitized and then filled rows of gleaming silver kegs with our Pinot Noir.
Doing wine in a keg is an interesting decision for a winery to make. I had heard about the much “greener” aspect of the technology and anecdotally from hearing about the process understood how a layer of inert argon gas can protect flavors of the wine. Naturally I was extremely excited to guarantee that what arrived in a restaurant customer’s glass was the very best I could offer and wasn’t the oxidized dregs of a half-open bottle from yesterday. Who wants to subject the wine-drinking public to that- yuck! But what about the cost savings? Isn’t it cheaper for wineries to do wine in kegs?
Believe it or not, it actually costs me slightly more to package my wine in a keg, due to the state of the art technology, the additional cost of the keg-retrieval service and other things. I don’t have to buy corks, capsules and labels of course but start to finish its essentially a wash. So why do it? What are some of the benefits of doing wine in a keg? Read on kind Garnet-fans and I think you’ll agree with me why it’s worth showing up for the party:
- Guaranteed freshest wine from the 1st glass to last!
- No oxidation, no corkage, no spoilage
- Every glass of wine gets to you just as I intended it to taste
- It’s the “green” choice – massive reduction in carbon footprint compared to bottles
- Reusable kegs can be used for over 30 years
- No waste to the landfill – Each reusable steel keg saves over 2,340 lbs of trash from the landfill over its lifetime
So how did it taste? Pretty darn great. From what I can tell, one of the coolest benefits of wine-in-a-keg is no bottle shock. I know, I know, it’s anecdotal at this point( and what is bottle shock anyway? -more on that in future blog posts, I promise) but as I typically wait at least three months after I bottle a wine to let it “settle down” and “get over itself” I was thrilled that, a month after kegging, the wine tasted exactly as I wanted it to.
Judging by how low we tapped that keg for #Wine Wednesday, I think it tasted exactly as everyone else wanted it to as well! Gwen and her team were flinging cute full and half-sized carafes left and right (she does 750 ml, 375 ml and glass-sized pours) as we dove into the sliders and sushi, snapping pictures and catching up. It was a fun time to hoist a glass of wine-on-tap 2012 Garnet Monterey Pinot Noir….and to get ready for our next keg run!
Please visit our friends at Fish Story in downtown Napa! Say hi to Chef Scott and Beverage Director Gwen Larson, whose staff gave us a keggin’ good time.
copyright Alison Crowe 2014
Just like TV’s favorite good guy/bad guy Walter White, there’s a lot of positive and negative about the season we call “bud break.” On one hand, it’s an exciting and exhilarating time when our vines wake up and the buds start pushing out the shoots which will turn into this Harvest’s grapes.
There are gorgeous sights to be had out in the field: stands of poppies, rows of mustard, velvety cover crops and of course, the stars of the show, our developing grape canopy and clusters.
On the other hand, there are some potentially not-so-beautiful experiences to be had: frost, continued drought, or even maybe crop-damaging hail. It’s a stressful time where we worry about how cold those nights will get or how much (or how little!) rainfall will manifest as the days creep by into late spring when warmer night temperatures take away a lot of the worry.
Though we’d like to see more storms and rain during this early growing season (we need it!), the main concern is frost, especially given the 2014 bud break which is tracking a week or two ahead of average.
What that means is that there are potentially two weeks’ more of nights where we could experience frost and subsequent damage to the emerging buds, resulting in stunted green growth and lost crop. Based on bud counts, shoot counts and just because I don’t think Mother Nature can hand us three bumper crops in a row, 2014 isn’t shaping up to be a big harvest season to begin with. Adding insult to injury, we are still in water-challenged conditions in California, which means that there could be little (and in some areas, no) access to extra water for frost protection (using sprinklers in cold conditions counter-intuitively can prevent buds from freezing).
So far, the Napa and Sonoma frost forecast into next week looks pretty good and continued cloud cover and rainy weather will keep nighttime temperatures above freezing. As we clear up into next week, however, those clear night skies mean colder temperatures could set in even as we get sunnier and warmer days. Cue the AMC (and the wind machines), grab some popcorn and a glass of Pinot Noir and be prepared for some “Breaking Bad”-style Jekyll and Hyde behavior. It’s always exciting to be in the vineyard in the springtime but we could be in for some cold criminal action!
Alison Crowe is the winemaker at Garnet Vineyards and is keeping tabs on vineyards in Carneros, Russian River, Sonoma Coast and Monterey appelations. Follow her on Twitter @GarnetVineyards or on facebook.com/GarnetVineyards for the latest on the developing season!
Usually a winemaker is accustomed to being interviewed by a writer (my chosen term for journalists, bloggers, etc.- see more on that debate via Tom Wark) in person or over the phone. They ask questions, you think about your responses and then answer, and then you email photos and a bio. Sometimes (and sometimes not) an article with your quotes (sometimes edited, sometimes not) appears, and it gets published in print and/or online. In my experience, email interviews are rare because most writers I’ve talked with want to get a sense of immediacy in a piece and email gives the interviewee “too much time to think” and the results often end up sounding too scripted.
It’s rare to be able to participate in what seems to be a new and pioneering way of talking to wine folks and I was thrilled to take part in a “Wine Text Interview” at wineconsumer.com. Lead by Creative Director Sean Piper, the interview via text I did yesterday was fast paced, unscripted (typos by me and all) and spontaneous.
We had arranged the time just the day before and I didn’t know exactly where in my day I would be at 1:30 when Sean texted me. If I had a break in the rain I was going to go check out how some of our Carneros and Sonoma Coast vineyards were faring in the recent heavy rain (no cover crop + lots of sudden rain = possibly erosion issues) and then head over to the winery to check on how our 2013 Pinots in barrel were doing. Sean didn’t give me any idea as to what he would ask or what we would chat about; I kind of liked it that way.
I was just diving into the stacks at 1:30 and was able to send him some “action shots” of my tasting set-up when he asked the first question about where I was and what I was doing. From there I was asked stock questions like to describe what I do at Garnet, which wines we make and their price points, etc. Then there were some very unexpected questions which made me think. One, “Share a picture of a bottle of your wine in the hands of a consumer or someone who helps you at the winery” threw me for a loop as I scrambled to grab a bottle of our 2012 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, which we had just bottled yesterday, and snap a picture of Miguel and I.
You can see the entire interview here. It was a fun experience. The “Wine Text Interview” retains the immediacy and spontaneity of a verbal interview and combines it with images and immediate share-ability. It’s a little hard to get a full screen view on the Facebook platform, so you have to click on Sean’s link on wineconsumer.com to read the whole story, but it’s a fun little narrative.
I think he’s the only one doing this format, and I look forward to more “Wine Text Interviews” from Sean and the Wineconsumer.com team. I encourage my winemaking colleagues to participate in the game!
Alison Crowe is the Winemaker at Garnet Vineyards. www.garnetvineyards.com @GarnetVineyards
copyright Alison Crowe 2013
So I’m about to go to my first kegger. As a winemaker, I mean. Scratch that- I mean as a winemaker putting their own wine into a keg, Garnet Monterey Pinot Noir to be exact!
I love the concept: cost-effective, eco-friendly and flavor-saving. But of course, as a winemaker, I had a lot of questions about exactly how the process works. Would I have to prep the wine differently? Where there any unique risks or quality control points I’d have to worry about that would be different than a normal bottling run? How would the kegs actually get to the restaurants, how would they be dispensed and then what happens to the empty kegs?
Luckily I knew I could count on my friend Jordan Kivelstadt, Founder and CEO of Free Flow Wines, for a little elucidation.
I used to share my “garage winery” space in Sonoma for Garnet Vineyards with Jordon, Rob and their team back when they were a little start-up just a few years ago. In a short time, they outgrew the space and since then have expanded into a new facility in south Napa by the infamous “Crusher Man” statue by the intersection of Hwy 29 and 121.
Yesterday I met up with Jordan, Rob, Heather and the gang for a little tour of Free Flow Wines’ new keg-straveganza. From a winemaking point of view, here’s how it works:
At my winery, I fill up a 525 gallon (that’s around 220 cases of wine) stainless steel “porta-tank” with tasty bottle-ready 2012 Garnet Vineyards Monterey Pinot Noir and forklift it onto a flatbed. Flatbed truck then trucks on over to Free Flow Wines’ facility just over the county line, and Rob and his crew position it near their custom-built “kegging line” and hooking up a sanitary hose fitting to the tank.
Evidently, they had this thing custom built by a German beer-kegging specialist (but we won’t hold that against them- the beer part, not the German part!). Each stainless steel keg that will be filled (one porta-tank will fill around 100 5.16 gallon kegs) automatically goes through a three-step cleaning and sanitizing process which heats the metal up hot enough to kill any bad yeast or bacteria that might be hanging around. What’s cool (literally) is that each keg then gets zapped back to room temp by a custom-made cooling collar….because I don’t want cooked wine (and neither do you). Then the kegs are filled under inert nitrogen counter-pressure (to exclude oxygen), are labeled with a custom paper collar and marked with a “born on” date and time sticker (for batch QC and tracking purposes). The filled kegs then get stacked on a pallet and forklifted into Free Flow’s bonded warehouse, waiting for a distributor to request one for a restaurant or other outlet (love the three-tier system, eh?).
Free Flow then ships it to the distributor and I invoice the distributor for the wine. At that point, Garnet Vineyards no longer has to worry about the keg because Free Flow works with an independent contractor partner for rounding up all the kegs around the country, separating them from the beer kegs (I don’t want any Lagunitas in my wine, than you very much) and herding them back into the barn at Free Flow in Napa, where they await being cleaned, sanitized and re-filled.
Note that the pool of Free Flow kegs is communal, i.e. that my wine may be going into a keg that once held somebody else’s wine….at first I wasn’t sure how I felt about that, but then I was walked step by step through their cleaning, sanitizing and monitoring process. I won’t bore you with the ATP swabs, luminometers, batch testing and German engineering details, but I got talked down off my ledge once I understood that nothing from anyone else’s wine was ever going to touch my wine. Awesome!
How is kegging wine different from the normal wine bottling process? From a QC point of view, I’m pretty excited that they can completely steam-sanitize the line, and it’s a smaller, simpler line with fewer moving parts and hence, fewer possible entrance points for airborne contaminants. Additionally, in a 5.16 gallon keg there is actually a really low oxygen-to-wine ratio (far less than in a 750 ml bottle) and so therefore wine in a keg will have less chance of oxidation than a standard format. Since there is no cork (Garnet does twist-off anyway), there is no chance of cork-taint spoilage from that source. The wine will be put into the keg “enjoyment ready” i.e. not needing any further aging, which is one point of difference I see with traditional “bottled” wine. However, since the average American consumes a wine within 72 hours of purchase and everyone buying a $11 glass of Garnet at a restaurant expects it to be from the current release that would be in the marketplace anyway, this is a non-issue.
I can clearly see the benefit of kegged wine from a winemaking quality point of view but how does it perform in a restaurant? I’ve heard that servers and bar-backs love it because they’re not opening bottles all the time (or throwing half-empty bottles out). I gotta believe that the customers like it because they know they’re getting a “fresh” glass every time and not something that’s been open for a week (yuk!). Inert gas (a combo of nitrogen and carbon dioxide) pushes the wine out, preventing any oxygen from reaching the wine which means that it gets into your glass in the same shape that I intended it to.
However, the one weak point I can see is “end user education”. Though a wine’s high acid and alcohol content (relative to beer and soda) means it will actually perform better than those drinks in a keg-hose-dispenser set up behind the bar, some of the quality of the experience will depend on how clean (or not!) the establishment keeps the set-up. Because wine can oxidize into vinegar and some other less-than-tasty aromas, restaurants, cruise ships and establishments serving kegged wine will need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions in keg line maintenance. To that end, Free Flow has launched a website called trywineontap.com. There, all involved parties can learn what best practices are, how to get wine-specific (no beer!) parts and how to make it work its best. I think sales reps will also have to learn some new tricks but hey, we all have to go with the flow, right? And you can believe me, I will still be doing some spot checking on the road! All in all, I am super-excited to give Garnet Monterey Pinot Noir from a keg a whirl!!!
So…… grab yourself a red solo cup, stay tuned for roll-out (we’re still finishing making the custom tap handle so it’ll be a couple of months) and be sure you RSVP to the invite for my first Garnet Vineyards kegger!
Interested in carrying Garnet wines in a keg? Adventurous retailers, email me here: firstname.lastname@example.org and come on down to my kegger!
Alison Crowe is the winemaker at www.garnetvineyards.com and can also be followed @GarnetVineyards as well as www.facebook.com/garnetvineyards
Well, it’s almost January. The stockings are down, the wrapping paper has been recycled and thank goodness that last stale bit of fruit cake has long been tossed out. That means it’s time to break out the local bubbly (with a big plug for the Domaine Carneros wine club!) and have a nice think back on my first year as an official “Wine Blog” (or something like that).
Many of you know that I’m a winemaker but also like to write. I published The WineMaker’s Answer Book in 2007, write the long-standing “Wine Wizard” column for WineMaker Magazine and pen the occasional column for trade publications. Basically, I just like to share about the wild and wacky but ever-fascinating world of winemaking, from a practitioner’s point of view.
I started Girl and the Grape as a way for folks to peek under the hood a little bit, to see what I was up to and what I was thinking about during the wine making year. The last thing I wanted to do was start another yawn-inducing “pretty winery picture” blog, indifferently updated once a quarter by the Marketing Intern. Because I don’t have one of those (or even a “Marketing Department” per se) what you get at girlandthegrape.com is unfined and unfiltered, sometimes about current winemaking issues, sometimes about my vineyard dog Kona, but always about real things that real winemakers (or at least this real winemaker) think about. The tagline “Winemaking, Life, the Dirt” pretty much sums it up.
So according to those techno-geeky bloggy things like Google Analytics, as well as, more importantly, feedback from my winemaker friends and the bartenders at Oxbow, below are the five most popular blog posts from girlandthegrape.com. Since I only started the blog in June, I’ve been so excited to welcome the hundreds (and then thousands) of visits and social media shares over the last six months.
Cheers to you all- I have so enjoyed sharing “Winemaking, life and the dirt” with you this year from the vineyards and look forward to a wonderful 2014!
-I dismantle, with the help of two professors from UC Davis, a questionable article which erroneously asserts that so-called “natural wine” can’t get you drunk.
-A shout-out to my own Australian Shepherd Kona, as well as as a tribute to all great vineyard dogs out there. (*warm fuzzies alert!*)
-I spill it, sorry fellow winemakers. We pick ‘em and we squish ‘em. That’s non-interventionist, water-conserving all-natural winemaking.
-I share my most important winemaking truism, and pay loving tribute to one of my Pinot Noir mentors, the late, great winemaker Don Blackburn.
-I humbly submit tips and techniques for surviving a large public wine tasting event as I prepared for the Napa Valley Film Festival 2013.
I wish you and yours a Happy New Year!